Wednesday 7 May 2008

Phuket










Stephen and I attempted to negotiate a deal at the airport for our first three nights on Phuket. We ended up staying in a very ordinary hotel on Karon Beach, but it grew on us as we began to recognize the merits of the central location. We could walk to a beautiful, sandy beach in minutes. I imagine it is very crowded during the peak season, but it was virtually empty because it was the start of the 'wet' season. The water was warm like bathwater and crystal clear. We spent the first day bobbing over bumpy waves that crashed right on the shore. We also found an inexpensive outdoor food tent that served the best Pad Thai I have ever tried.

On Day 2 we went on a day diving excursion with DiveAsia. We headed out to the islands of Racha Yai and Racha Noi to do three dives. Because we booked last minute we ended up with a portly Dutch divemaster who volunteers to be on-call at the dive center whenever he is in Thailand. He spend part of each year in Thailand and is building a house on Phuket with his Thai wife. He was a character, but he didn't really know the dive sites very well. He managed to point out a moray eel, two venomous lionfish with their graceful, but dangerous feathery appendages, a Godfrey sea cucumber that looks like one long octupus' tentacle. We swam with a school of sleek, silvery barracuda that all changed direction at the same time. We also spotted several of the reef fish that we spied in Australia: butterflyfish, parrotfish, anemonefish ('Nemo's'), moorish idols, etc... They are so colorful it is a pleasure to watch them.

On our final dive we leapt of the boat after a group getting their certification and then watched in dismay as the boat disappeared around the island. Our Dutch guide mistakenly jumped off in the wrong spot. We made the best of it and followed him around. It was a really nice area full of a variety of soft and stony coral and fish. He soon became concerned when he couldn't see the other group so we popped up to see if we could spot their bubbles. When we surfaced we didn't see anyone except a small fishing boat. I told myself at least we could hitch a ride with the fisherman if the boat didn't return for us. I wasn't convinced that they had been counting everyone on and off of the boat like they did in Australia. We went back under to use some more of our air. Fortunately, he heard the noise of the boat as it returned for the first group so we surfaced and boarded the dive boat while we had the chance. He then attempted to make amends by buying us drinks. It was a really nice trip overall with lots of marine life to look at and great visibility. I was able to consolidate my diving knowledge and luckily had enough control of my buoyancy at this point to avoid landing on the lionfish and other stinging things!

It wasn't until the third day that we had any rain. It was pouring in the morning so Stephen had a Thai massage while I got my haircut. Fortunately, the rain stopped and it became hot and sunny. We took an overpriced tuk tuk to Kata Beach realizing too late that it was within walking distance. We had seen it as we picked up people for our diving trip the day before. It was even nicer than Karon - more sheltered and less developed. We went for a swim and then rushed back to meet Jenny and Guy at the fancy villas she booked for us. They were really lovely and built into the hillside just before Karon Beach. They had just flown in so we had a birthday dinner for Jenny and then retired early so we could get up for the fancy breakfast buffet the next morning!

I really loved Phuket, especially the clear, warm water. I have heard many people complain of the crowds, but it was nice and tranquil during the low season (we did avoid Patong which was probably a good decision).